Fillilp’s

June 29

After the rooftop party (see the entry below), I had dinner at Fillip’s, a year-old place in Chelsea that I’d never heard of until the publicist invited me there. She likes to throw press dinners, at which 6 or 8 or a dozen people sit at a long table and theoretically get to know one another in a convivial environment. It’s a hit-or-miss proposition.
Tonight, though, Kathryn and Chris Matthews (not that Chris Mathews), were there. Kathryn’s a food writer and Chris writes about wine, and they’re both very good dinner companions.
I’m not a wine writer, and I find some of them to be rather elitist and insufferable, but I like Chris and spent most of the night talking to him and Fillip’s sommelier about the wines.
After dinner, the chef, Brian Bieler, came out and chatted. He’s a Kansas farm boy who managed to finagle his way to New York. He says he changes the menu pretty much every day.

What I ate and drank:

Vichyssoise with osetra caviar and nutmeg
2004 Domaine de la Batardière Muscadet Sur Lie, Loire, France

Roasted Maine diver sea scallops with citrus suprème salad and coriander
NV Gruet Blanc de Noir, Brut, Albuquerque, New Mexico

Warm early summer asparagus with baby arugula and frisée salad, romesco and sherry vinaigrette
2003 Raymond Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California

Flying Pig Farms braised pork belly with granny smith apple, wild arugula and French lentil
2003 Jaboulet Isnard, Côtes Du Ventoux, Rhone, France

Crispy Long Island duck breast with Broccoli raab, pine nuts, Vermont baby carrot confit and natural reduction
2004 Heron Pinot Noir, American Canyon, California
(American Canyon, the sommelier discovered after I asked him, is a sort of broad appelation allowing for grapes to come from many parts of the state).

Warm heirloom apple tart with vanilla bean ice cream and caramel
2004 Pirramimma Late Harvest Riesling, South Australia