The herb that looks like parsley, but more delicate, and tastes like tarragon, but more shy, is back.
Chervil is a member of the classic French quartet known as fines herbes (along with chives, tarragon and parsley) and in 1999 and 2000 I saw sprigs of it on top of dozens and dozens of center-of-the-plate proteins. Then, like the herb itself, notoriously tricky to grow and fast to wither, it mostly faded from my sight. Maybe it was still around and I just stopped noticing after I wrote an 1,100-word feature on it.
Once an article’s written, I pretty much stop thinking about it.
But I’ve been noticing it again lately. It garnished a bunch of the things I ate the other night at Bobo, and it’s showing up elsewhere, too. I wonder why.